So by having the next couple of days off from university I planned to have my garment fully finished by the beginning of Tuesday as I am hoping to conduct my photo shoot at uni on Tuesday.
Therefore on today I carried on with my toile because I find it greatly helpful by making a toile first because this allows for the making of the final garment to happen more efficiently. As on wednesday I had only finished making the construction part of the jacket today I focused on finishing the jacket which entailed adding in sleeves and also making the skirt. I know that I could finish my toile relatively quickly if I worked efficiently.
To make the sleeve I took an already existing pattern and altered it. The original pattern was a loose fitting sleeve that was a three quarter length sleeve and instead of having an even hem line it had a zig zagged edge. I used this sleeve as a block because it has the basic shape that I needed and I am confident enough to adjust the patten. In terms of alterations I cut the block in half placed in on some pattern paper, however making sure to add a 20cm gap in between the pieces, this is in order to lengthen the sleeve drastically. I also wanted to straighten the hem so in order to do this I just used a ruler and drew a straight line from on end to the other.
Following this I cut out the new pattern, pinned it to some calico which had been folded so when I cut the pattern I will get two which will save me a lot of time. Once having two sleeves cut out, I pinned along the seam edge then sewed the seems. Leaving me with two finished sleeves. This was really easy and actually quite simple as well as this it didn't take me long at all and I am pleased at how well the sleeve came out. Also I'm happy that I added in the additional 20cm because now the sleeve is very long which exaggerates my distortion of the body concept even more.
Following on from this and Wednesday, when I cut the skirt up so I could see where the two different fabrics would join, I sewed the separate pieces back together and began to make the ruffle for the bottom of my skirt. For this I cut out a 1 metre long piece that was 30cm wide. With this one piece cut out I then cut it out four times in the calico. Sew the edges together so I had one 4metre long piece then along the longer edge I sewed all down it, making sure the tension on my machine was the highest as I was going to use this stitch as the thread to gather and make the ruffle. The first time I did this I began pulling the thread to get the ruffle and the thread snapped in several placing, this begin very frustrating I sewed it again, and the same thing happened again whilst trying to gather it. I changed the thread because i believe the thread I was sewing with was cheap, once the thread had changed I gathered it again and it worked with out any issue. However looking at the gathered ruffle I though it was quite tight and had a bit too much volume, so I took out one of the panels and the gathering looked a lot better because it was a bit more loose and fell more naturally. Then I attached it to the bottom of my skirt. I then tried the skirt on because I was at home and didn't have a manikin. The skirt looked good and so did the jacket, the fits were good and it looked like my final design, so I was ready to make my final garments. Although one thing I noticed was the the skirt was possibly a bit to long, so I pinned the ruffle so it lost 10cm and looking at it again I decided I would shorten the ruffle from 30cm to 20cm.
Overall today was good, I am pleased with my toile now that it is finished and I am ready to create the final garments. Also I am pleased that I was able to make the toile relatively quickly because now I shouldn't get behind on the making of the final items.
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